A blog about my culinary experiences in Paris and around the world.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Rien d'Impossible en Brest

For our Anglo voyage, we went on a 3-day school trip to Bretagne (Brittany) in north-western France, particularly around Brest (the most western tip of Europe, also known as in the Finistère department). 
Though Brittany is best known for its Breton crêpe, its main culinary feature is seafood...and we ate a lot of seafood - scallops especially...actually, we just ate a lot in general :)


The main theme of the trip was to visit local farmers, producers and how they conduct local business in Brittany. 3 days seems very short to the average person but trust me, we saw/ate/drank a lot during those 3 days. What else could we do to beat the frigid...and i mean FRIGID cold (...we are at the western tip of Europe facing the Atlantic)


Day 1:
Waking up early for our train at 6.30 am was not easy, especially if you snoozed your alarm and woke up at 6am!?!? Though morning was a rush, the 4 hour voyage to Brest was met with a good nap. 


Upon our arrival to Brest, we boarded a bus to Lannilis, a commune in Bretagne, north of Brest. There we were met with Chef and M.O.F Jean-Luc L'Hourre and his staff at his 1-star Michelin restaurant L'Auberge des Arberts. The restaurant was quaint, a little rustic theme was felt and the food was simple and elegant. 


Chef L'Hourre getting ready


While we waited, our Chef got interviewed by the local newspaper...this happened 3 times during our trip

Entrée: Parfait de St-Jacques, Beurre Monté et Chanterelles (Parfait of scallop with mushrooms)


Plat: Paupiette de lieu jaune, purée de céléri fumé, Croustillant de pommes gaufrettes, Croustillant de Jambon et Bisque d'étrilles (Pollock fish with celery puree, Potato chip and crispy bacon with crayfish bisque)


Dessert: Paris-Brest


Having had a satisfying meal, my stomach was met with a surprise when we went to visit C.Chocolat, a French chocolatier in Brest (who graduated from Ferrandi too!).

                                    

 Visiting a chocolate and macaroon company = eating more...It's a family run business with father and son in tow and they were very nice to give us a tour of their huge store (with kitchen). It was very clean, and they were patient enough to explain the steps of how they produce their chocolate. I was so proud as they had a Jade and Ella chocolate candy...so obviously had to try those!


From this...

Smoothing out the ganache de chocolat
To this...




Our job...to try...



Macarons


Confiture



My stomach now filled with goodies, I wanted to rest but we went straight to our next destination; a sheep farm where we met with the local farmers who explained to use how they breed and raise their animals, how they make the milk and fabricate cheese and yoghurt.



How they pump their milk. The ewes are all nicely aligned.


We got to try it out...


And taste the cheese, it can't get as fresh as this...


For dinner, our Chef kindly booked with us La Fleur de Sel, a 1-star Michelin restaurant headed by Chef Yann Plassard (the Chef who came to do a demo in our school a few months back)


Salt and Pepper shakers

Amuse Bouche: Croquant d'Avocat, Mousse de Betterave (Crunchy Avocado, Beet mousse)



Entrées: Huitre de Kéraliou, pommes verte, et sabayon au cidre fermier (Oyster with green apples, cider sabayon)


Homard breton roti, confit de choux vert et céléri, far de blé noir, jus émulsionné (Roasted lobster with celery and cabbage confit, buckwheat and emulsioned jus)



Plats: Noix de Coquilles St-Jacques en coque, Beurre de truffes (Scallops in its shell, truffled butter)


Dos de Barbue en papillote "carta fata", retour du marché aux légumes, huile de pistache (Brill fish wrapped in paper with its vegetables and pistacchio oil)




Desserts: Poires/réglisse, sabré breton, cappuccino de poires (Pears and Licorice, Pear cappuccino)


Chocolate surprise!


All we could do after this was sleep...from tiredness but also from all the eating...Our stomachs had to be ready for Day 2.

Day 2: An early wake up call and slouching down to Breakfast at 6.30am for a morning cup of coffee barely woke us up for our first visit for a local cow farm, where we tried the locally produced butter, cheese and yoghurt.

Break of dawn...



Local farmer explaining to us how she makes her butter



Fresh yoghurt and butter



Breakfast round 2


Our chef getting interviewed again by another local newspaper...we're getting famous!


Our next stop for me was the highlight, I think because it involves pork and I was getting some meat withdrawals already...
We drove to see a demo and degustation at a Charcuterie owned by Hélibert in Bourg Blanc, an eccentric and funny Chef who (along with his wife) were so welcoming into their shop, kitchen and tell us about his story, his recipes and make us taste everything he makes himself. Everyday they make about 6-7 terrines for their clients and change the ingredients as well: sometimes it's rabbit, sometimes pork, sometimes wild boar, etc...



All the sausages and terrines you can imagine...I think I'm in heaven


Some featured favorites...

Andouille - a coarse-grained smoked meat


This comes from this:


A smoked ham roll


Why not some pre-lunch boudin noir and andouillette?




Fresh paté


Post-charcuterie picture of some of the Anglos


At this point, I thought this was lunch but again I was wrong when we boarded the bus and then headed to Hélibert's wife restaurant L'Ecaillé des abers by the sea. This restaurant had a maritime theme and unlike the morning, we ate pure seafood.

Raw scallop in shell


The main dish...look how happy Matan looks...it was an amalgamation of seafood (langoustine, shrimp and clams), fish (salmon and pollock) and vegetables (potatoes, carrots, string beans) in a creamy curry sauce.


Only halfway done...


To top it off, we had a chocolate fondant...


At this point, I just felt like I was in a food coma...JAMAIS! We need to move along...first stop an Abalone (Ormeaux) farm.




This was a real treat as in Hong Kong, eating abalone is pretty expensive. Here, they grow up to 7-8 years old and get easily stressed out (that's how they die, and that's why they are hard when raw). You have to pound them to soften them up and then they're ready for eating :)


Simple cooked in butter...


We then visited the point of Saint-Mathieu, at the very western tip of Brittany.



There, we met with Yvon Laine Plougonvelin to visit his seafood farm as well as a vegetable conditioning factory


Local worker explaining how they sell their local vegetables to the population: including cauliflower, broccoli, strawberries, etc...


Now to the holding tanks...

Scallops


Lobster


And crab...



Before dinner, we went to a local slaughterhouse, and were explained the processes to raise cows and calfs...they were too cute! Sad I love to eat beef so much...


As the day came to an end, we were welcomed to the Hotel at Saint-Mathieu for a dinner.

Amuse Bouche: Crème Brulée de Foie Gras, Mousse de Betterave (Creme Brulee of Foie Gras and Beetroot Mousse)


Entrée: Noix de Saint-Jacques juste saisies aux endives acidulées (Scallops in shell with endives)


Plat: Filet de Bar accompagné de son Risotto Crémeux (Seabass and creamy risotto)


Dessert: Assiette Gourmande (Assortment of Desserts)


Good night Day 2!

Day 3:

For our finally day in Brest, we got to get up a little later.
First, we met up with Chef Yann Plassard to take a tour of his second restaurant (right across from our hotel) in an old seaboat.


Original decorations were kept


In the kitchen



After our brief tour, we drove to a local sardinerie in Concarneau where they package canned sardines, mackerel, tuna, as well as fish soup, and lobster bisque among others.



Before our lunch, we had a little time to kill so some of us visited a local food market in Concarneau and found piment d'espelette at the root!


For our final meal in Brittany, we ate at Les Coquilles right on the seaport of Concarneau, in our own private room too where we later met the Chef, ex- of La Tour d'Argent. 




Bread with lardons (bacon)


One of the books picked up from the surrounding library..of course, Alain :)


Entrée: Avocado Mousse with Shrimp, Chantilly cream



Plat: Seabass with purée


Dessert: Apple Tart and Vanilla ice-cream with caramel


It was a wonderful trip organized by Chef and we thank both of you for accompanying us and showing us the wonders of local produce and food from Brittany. Every single person we met was very welcoming, warm and kind and even opened their farm/factory when they usually closed for the day. We very much appreciated your hospitality and thank you for an amazing trip!

Chef Sébastien de Massard and Chef Stéphane Gabrielly














Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Le Grand Pan

Tucked in the 15th arrondissement, Benoit Gauthier’s Le Grand Pan unfussily and deliciously serves up superb meats (pork, veal, lamb, chicken even bambi!)



A fantastic local bistro in the 15th district under the Young chef Benoît Gauthier who trained at Le Troquet has come up with a way to satisfy carnivorous appetites. Yes, it's all about the meat. The atmosphere is casual with large wooden tables that invite customers to gather near each other family-style. 


Served on rectangular platters in huge chunks, the meat is scorched in heat. The menu lies on the nearby chalkboard; some of the permanent dishes include a platter of charcuterie to be followed by cote de boeuf, cote de porc or cote de veau, all in servings for two.


Assiette de Charcuterie to start:


Amuse-Bouche: Creme de Choux-fleurs in a reduction of smoked ham and onion


Getting ready for the meat: 


Côte de porc Ibaïona de chez Louis Ospital (Pork)


Côte de veau de Mauléon (Veal)


All meat dishes come with salad and potatoes (just to make you feel a LITTLE healthy). The potatoes are double-cooked hand-cut fries tossed lightly with garlic. 




And...dessert

Tarte tatin de Romain

                               

Mont blanc


Le Grand Pan is a serious value for the amount you are given. A great meal, and a definite neighborhood try out for meat lovers across the board!  


Le Grand Pan
20 rue Rosenwald, 75015
Tel: 01 42 50 02 50

Metro: Convention (Ligne 12), Plaisance (Ligne 13)

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Les Anges





Les Anges is tucked on rue Montmartre, off Etienne Marcel train station. The cuisine is light and delicious. You open the menu and are proposed 8 different types of tea; there is obviously coffee as well. The restaurant is famous for its cakes and its 'special' dishes such as the "assiette des anges" - an assortment of salted tarts, and cooked vegetables. You can find pretty much everything here on the menu, from salads, to meat and fish. The choice is quite diverse.

But the dessert is what counts. In the middle of the restaurant lies a counter with their 'patisseries "faites maison" such as the banana caramel cake, apricot caramel cake, brownies, etc... - around 10 possible desserts for those with sweetooths.

Apricot caramel cake
Chocolate marquise
A definite good resting spot for those shopping around the area. Very relaxed and calm atmosphere.

Les Anges
46 Rue Montmartre, 75002
Metro: Etienne Marcel (Ligne 4) ou Sentier (Ligne 3)



Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Menu Régional: Le Grand Ouest

Our last regional meal paid homage to Le Grand Ouest of France, a geographic region used to describe the northwestern region of the country, not corresponding to an administrative entity but groups together Brittany, pars of lower Normandy and the Loire valley. 


A final pic of Anglo B together for regional meal...it has been a very hard, hectic but awesome 5 months with you guys!






Amuse Bouche by Maniko: Rillette de Sardines (Sardine rillette with herbs, on olive bread)






Entrées by Joppe and Me: Carpaccio de langoustines (Langoustine carpaccio with creamed herring eggs)






Poissons by Natalia, Roberto and Diyonisis: Les Encornets (Squid three ways: stuffed with pig's foot, stuffed with ratatouille and with chilled piquillo)




Poissons by Isabel, Carolina and Rosella: Ragout d'homard, Tagliatelle de Legumes et Linguini (Lobster stew with vegetable tagliatelle and Linguini pasta)






Desserts by Yiyu and Sinan: Crêpes à l'orange, Glace caramel au beurre salé (Terrine of orange crepes, Salted butter caramel ice-cream)






This was our last meal together as a class. Right now, everyone is probably studying, memorizing and understanding the recipes we've done since the beginning of the year - for tomorrow and/or Friday's test!


A big hug and good luck to both Anglo A and B during their final exam! Wish you guys all the best...See you on the other side! :)




Tuesday, January 11, 2011

The last recipes of the Ferrandi chapter...

So sad that these are the last entries of my time in culinary school. Ending with a lot of meat (including beef, pork and lamb) - which I can't complain about :)

Entrecôte grillée, Beurre persillé, Pomme croquettes (Grilled entrecote with parsley butter and deep-fried potatoes)


Steak sautés Bercy, pommes cocotte (Steak with Bercy sauce - a reduction of shallots, white wine and brown stock)


Carré de porc Choisy, Pommes Chateau
(Oven-roasted rack of Pork with braised lettuce and sauteed potatoes)



Epaule d'Agneau, Gratin de pommes de terre (Lamb shoulder and Potato gratin)



Carré d'Agneau (persillé) primeurs (Parsley covered rack of lamb) 



Thursday and Friday is the final test of our school year, we have to remember every technique we've done so far. Can't believe it's already the end of culinary school and the beginning of the internship! Scary stuff!


Luckily, tomorrow, we have our last regional meal of Le Grand Ouest - to enjoy our time as a class in the kitchen before the test, our school trip to Brest and then graduation!