A blog about my culinary experiences in Paris and around the world.
Showing posts with label Paris districts: 17eme. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris districts: 17eme. Show all posts

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Frédéric Simonin

I have been wanting to go to Frédéric Simonin since I heard about its opening in April of last year. Gathering good marks from food critics and bloggers alike and recently winning its 1st Michelin star 3 weeks ago, I am not surprised that the menu prices have almost doubled. Damn!





The restaurant, Frédéric Simonin, is titled after the Chef himself. A former Chef at big-name restaurants like Taillevent, Le Cinq at the Four Seasons George V Hotel and notably Joel Robuchon's right-hand man who helped him win Michelin stars in London and Paris; Simonin decided to open his own restaurant. 



Despite the 1st star prices, the restaurant kept the original 38 euros lunch menu among the choices - including the 130 euros (or 180 euros with wine) tasting menu which doubled in price since its Michelin award. From the front, there is not indication of what to expect indoors. As you walk in though, it might seem a little impersonal - decor is restricted to black and white with a sitting area at the front and a long dining room separated by glass windows. 









The menu of the day...


Amuse-Bouche: Pot of mousse of foie gras, reduction of porto wine and emulsion of parmesan
2 words: Too good!





Entrées:


Mulet carpaccio with red peppers, citrus vinaigrette
It was very fresh and clean in taste and beautiful in color.



With warm toasted open-faced baguette


Rabbit with mustard greens, on a bed of lentils, nuts and a reduction of jus
A little bit heavier than the mullet. I liked the lentils better than the rabbit (perhaps because it's more of a white meat kind of poultry) - maybe because it did not taste like lentils as much?





Plats


Pollock with spinach leaves, garlic chips and watercress




Braised veal in its jus with roasted potato and beet leaves.
I thought the meat was a bit too stringy for the cut of the meat - the jarret; the "knuckle".




On the side, we HAD to order Joel Robuchon's famous potato purée or should I say butter purée. Its a very well-known and HEAVY dish of equal amounts of potato and butter....yes...equal amounts..but boy does it taste good! (Perhaps not afterwards when you get up from your seat)



"Oooh poor commis" repeated my good friend Maniko; who joined for lunch. And she was right. "Look the commis had to cut all these little brunoise, and weed out the bad mustard leaves"...How interesting it is that now our appreciation for food and the process of making has changed so much in the last 6 months!


Desserts


Le Café Frivole with pear confite and Arabica ice-cream
Exceptionally, they let me have this instead of the dessert for the Lunch menu. The photo does not do the dessert any justice. It literally came as a ball of chocolate but before I had time to react and take a picture the waitress poured hot melted chocolate and the ball started to disappear before my eyes. A big 'oooh' and 'aaaah' moment.



Panna cotta, pistacchio sauce and pistacchio foam with oreo cookies. 
A very interesting mix and beautiful flavor and color. 


Caramelized Apple with Apple sorbet, and Lemon Mousse.
Very light and clean in presentation and taste. 





Loved the caramel candy at the end.





It might seem a little expensive, but the Chef is very precise and imaginative in his dishes which are presented with lots of color (something that contrasts with the decor of the restaurant). A restaurant to look out for in the near future. Try the Lunch menu at 38 euros. 




Frédéric Simonin
25 Rue Bayen, 75017
Tel: 01 45 74 74 74
Metro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile (Ligne 1, 2 et 6), Ternes (Ligne 2)
Closed: Sundays and Mondays

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Orange Amère

Bigarrade, also known as an Orange Amère is an out-of-the-way (culinarily and geographically speaking) restaurant located in North-west of Paris. On a rainy day (almost hurricane-like), a trek to the northwest of Paris seems a bit absurd, but not when you're going to see Christophe Pelé (and his second in command Giuliano Sperandio) in action and taste his no-choice menu at the small restaurant holding around 20 covers. Since it opened in 2007, it received it's first Michelin-star in 2008, then a second in 2009 making it one of the top contenders to get a third star in consecutive years.
Daniel Rose (Chef of Spring) was a consultant and you can see similar features of both restaurants, notably the open kitchen. But it is more lively, more noisy, people can TALK out loud on top of American jazzy music. 
Conceptually, it is apparently between L'Astrance and Pierre Gagnaire, and like Pascal Barbot's concept at l'Astrance, there is only 1 menu (changed daily) allowing the Chef to improvise and be spontaneous in his recipes. You can tell Pierre Gagnaire (former boss of Pelé) still has an influence over the 41-year old Chef with the contrasting flavors and colors.


Enough talking, let's get to the pics!
Obviously, we went for the menu gourmand extravaganza.




Salted Focaccia and olive oil to start off






Soft-shell crab (moscardini) and grilled lemon, eaten with your hand. The meat was juicy, and coating crunchy.






Crème of celery with cacao






Dorade Royale with Tobiko eggs



Crème of foie gras




Raw St. Jacques (scallops) with onions




Rouget, endives and Squash seed with Karashi mustard

                               

Aile de raie et truffe blanche, lemon caviar and dried cuttlefish






Pintade avec anguille et pate d'echalotes






Fromage: Brebis, chevre, copeau et raisin






Desserts parallel to Pierre Gagnaire's set up






Pear in green tea froth and Granite d'orange




Pamplemousse passion and Mousse de citron






Sorbet a la mangue






Chocolate noir et chocolate pruneau






Dacquoise sandwich with the cheque






I thoroughly enjoyed the food here. I will be bias in this blog and state it is probably one of the best meals I have had here so far. The products were fresh, interesting, clean and light and and all-around enjoyable experience that I would like to have again. 




Bigarrade
106 Rue Nollet
75017
Tel: 01 42 26 01 02

Metro: Brochant (Ligne 13)