Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie

After a shopping day at your local cuisine shops (e.g. Mora, Bovida, Simone and the likes), you can take a break at Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie situated next to Bovida. Before coming to Ferrandi, I had always passed by this restaurant/boutique and often saw many people coming out of the shop with bags filled with gastronomic ingredients including fresh fois gras d'oie (goose foie gras) to boudin noir (blood sausage) even wine as well as others sitting in the restaurant next door. 

The restaurant is rather old (supposedly existed since 1894) with wooden banquets and tables. You have a view of the open-boutique that looks like an antique épicerie with its own side entrance. Whatever you find in the boutique you will find on the menu with a couple of more choices of foie gras, cassoulet and magret de canard (duck breast). 


Soupe à l'oignon - simple, traditional but very tasty with the caramelized onions matching perfectly with the the grated cheese

Royale de Foie gras

Salade de Canard - different parts of the duck including foie gras with a subtle vinaigrette

Foie gras poêlé - seared foie gras - melted in your mouth with the sweetness of the honey, went ery well with the crunchyness of the pain d'épices. 

Magret de Canard - perfectly seared (inside was rosé, just as it should be)

Moelleux au Chocolat - to die for!

Yes, I know it's a lot of duck to handle but this is their specialty - everything revolving around duck, goose and the likes. If you're in the mood for duck, definitely come to this place that will satisfy your hunger for foie gras. 


Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie
34 Rue Montmartre, 75001
Tel: 01 42 33 31 32
Metro: Etienne Marcel (Ligne 4)


Website: www.comptoir-gastronomie.com

Robert et Louise

Robert et Louise is a small restaurant, easily missed on the Rue Veille du Temple.

Try not to miss this hidden gem for carnivores. The walls are adorned with kitchen utensils and pictures of the old days - makes you feel like you're back in 1930s. In general, the decor is rather minimal, everything around you is made of wood and in the back you can see the great big wood burning fire where most of the meats are grilled. Yes...that's the 'kitchen', at the back of the restaurant - actually it's an alcove with an open fire and a giant wooden chopping block. 

It's all about the meat - which the Chef grabs from the hanging fridge and slabs it on the grill, serving it on a hot wooden plate. The meat is cooked to perfection - saignant/rare and you can taste the smokyness of the meat coming from the burning wood. 

To start, we had an assiette de charcuterie and the boudin noir (yummy blood sausage and very sweet as well) which were both delicious and served with baguette and cornichons. 

The starters were a great introduction to the country-style food we'd be getting but it was the meats that came afterwards that were brilliant. All served with roasted potatoes and a side-salad. 


The confit de canard was juicy, tender and fell of the bone.

The plat du jour: Tête de veau melted in your mouth. It consisted of different pieces of the veal's head served with diced cornichons, eggs and caper sauce.

The entrecôte, served saignant is a meat lover's dream. It's dark on the outside, pink, juicy and tender on the inside, so tender you can cut it with a butter knife with fat to make it have plenty of flavor. 

I found out that Anthony Bourdain came here and loved it, and I can see why. Another great meat find in Paris with an inexpensive menu (try to come during the week, they have the best prix-fixe in town: 12 euros for starter and main or main and dessert - who can beat that?!). Prices here are kept at a low and the portions are generous so definitely a great value for money. No need to reserve here, perhaps only for dinner on weekends.

Robert et Louise
64 Rue Veille du Temple, 75003
Tel: 01 42 78 55 89
Metro: Saint-Paul (Ligne 1)

Bistrot Paul Bert

I have heard a lot about Bistrot Paul Bert as many's favorites for traditional french food. There's good reason for that. The menu changes seasonally and it's a carnivore's paradise (including yours truly) including hure de cochon, côte de porc, entrecôte, steak aux poivres among others. 

The restaurant is rather rustic looking, a traditional French bistrot to be honest with mirrored walls, tiled floors, and mobile chalkboard menus.  The tables are quite close to each other (as they are in Paris) and the menu is heavy on the meat. They have a lot of fish too, and they were equally as good. 

Entrées

Ceviche de Cabillaud

Oeufs durs à la Mayonnaise de Truffe Noire

Plats

Pot-au-feu et ses légumes -  full of tender beef, potatoes, turnips, leeks, carrots, and even a fist-sized piece of marrow

This crowded and very popular place has become one of my favorite bistros in Paris as they serve an excellent entrecôte (served only bleue or saignante - as it should be but definitely not for the faint of heart) and frites. 

Desserts (if you still have room!)

Sorbets faits maison (ananas - pineapple, citron - lemon, cassis)

Soufflé au Grand Marnier

A must-come even if you're in Paris for 72 hours. It demonstrates traditional French cuisine done very well and will make you visit the East of Paris.


Two helpful suggestions: 1. Come with a big appetite, 2. Reservations strongly advised


Bistrot Paul Bert
18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Tel: 01 43 72 24 01Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny (Ligne 8)

La Chaumette

La Chaumette is one of those hideaway restaurants only known by locals of the neighborhood that they keep secret themselves from others in the 16th arrondissement. You won't find tourists here, just friendly neighbors serving traditionally french dishes that one's grandma might make on a Sunday afternoon. This bistro reminds me of a grand aunt’s living room, with cookbooks and French classic literature on the shelves, wood paneling and shaded light fixtures making you feel just like at home.  

The tables are  adorned with Chaumette branded china.  Of course, the wait staff bring fine French silver for each course, depending upon what is ordered.

The tables are cozy and small, and closely positioned side by side to the one next to it. Just like your own family, the staff could not be more charming. They were helpful, smiling, and spoke English. 

The best thing about Chaumette, however, is the food.  Focused on traditional French cuisine, La Chaumette brings mama’s and grandma’s dishes, French comfort food that is always satisfying and full of flavor, to the table.  

Côte de bœuf (roasted cut of beef) with classic bearnaise

Blanquette de veau (Veal stew)

Filet de Canette au foie gras (Seared duck in foie gras sauce)

Vegetable dish - pot-au-feu style

Desserts:

Crêpes Suzette

Verrine aux marrons, mascarpone à l'Amaretto

A quaint restaurant in the 16th district. You might enter as a tourist but you will come out as a local. 

La Chaumette

7 Rue Gros, 75016 (Metro: Passy - Ligne 6 ou Boulainvilliers - RER C)

Tel: 01 79 97 32 66

From East to West: A visit to Stella Maris and Chez Dumonet

My mom surprised me with wonderful news when she had booked Stella Maris, 1 Michelin star restaurant, resting on rue Arsène Houssaye, a small side street, steps away from the Arc de Triomphe. Buried by other major restaurants, and covered with dark exterior decor, this restaurant might be even easy to miss. Chef Taturo Yoshino heads this venture and one might assume this is a Japanese restaurant, but Chef follows classical French cuisine by the book. The reception is a bit cramped as you walk in but you are immediately escorted to the main dining room of 7 tables (and 3 upstairs) very well lit and decorated in cream colors (from the walls to the plating). 
It was a Thursday night and a very quiet one indeed, with only 3 tables being served by the time we had finished dinner (after 10 pm). The two waiters at hand were very attentive but the dishes were much more pricier than 1 star Ze Kitchen Galerie, and perhaps less exciting in terms of taste and creativity? We decided to take the menu de saison which included a choice of entree, fish or meat and a dessert.


Amuse Bouche 1: Parmesan gougères. A pâte à choux with a strong parmesan flavor. 

Amuse Bouche 2: Velouté de lait de chèvre, mousse au fruit de passion. Mousse of passion fruit topped a broth of goat's milk. It played well on the sweet/savory taste buds. 

Entrées:


1. Terrine tiède de ris de veau, langoustine poelée, salade composée (warm terrine of veal sweetbread with langoustine and a side vinaigrette salad). 

2. Tartare de thon, Parmesan "Reggiano". Tuna tartare with Parmesan cheese (I love the cone made out of tuna). 

Plats:

1. Daurade royale, marinière de coquillages. Roasted dorade with clams. Unfortunately, it was seasoned too much but it wasn't overcooked and was light. 

2. Supreme de Canette de Charente rotie aux figues, jus nature. Roasted duck with figs. The plate was hot but was dirty on the sides with the jus spreading throughout the dish very quickly and I know if Chef was in the kitchen, he would not be pleased!

Desserts:

1. Gratin de poivron rouge, tomate confit, sorbet basilic. It was almost like a creme brulee of red pepper with a basil ice-cream. An interesting take on savory/sweet but not to my liking. 

2. Montblanc 'Maison', glace vanilla et marrons. Sponge cake on pâte sucrée and in whipped cream wrapped with strands of chestnut vermicelli; it was crowned with a long meringue twig and teamed with vanilla ice cream. This was the best dish of the night. 

Petits fours: Macarons, Chocolats et Madeleines

My overall impressing is mixed one. The dishes were thoughtful (except for the first amuse-bouche) and cooked flawlessly (apart from the dorade) and even experimental (dessert). At the same time, it was a 'good' but not 'great' meal, nothing leaped at me as amazing or mind-blowing and the atmosphere was very quiet, not vibrant, perhaps even restrained. But perhaps one short visit is not enough?

Stella Maris

4, rue Arsène Houssaye, Paris 75008

tel: 01 42 89 16 72
Metro: Charles de Gaulle-Étoile

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Last night Chez Dumonet was bustling, vibrant, loud with warm and hearty food, definitely my kind of scene. The restaurant hosts about 25 tables and is run by Jean-Christian Dumonet (3rd generation Dumonet) whom we met and talked with, he even sat at our table and chatted for a bit; a charming guy, very witty, very quick in humor but  stern to his staff, where everything has to be parfait! Entering and sitting in this restaurant made me imagine what Paris was in the old days with amber walls, classic lights and old posters. Portions are served half or whole and with the recommendations of Chef Jean-Christian himself, we had half of foie gras frais and 2 plats. Do not come to this restaurant if you're a vegetarian, the menu is covered with meaty dishes from boeuf bourguignon, agneau roti, steak tartare...

1. Amuse Bouche: Velouté de Potiron (Pumpkin soup)

2. Foie gras de canard fait maison (this was a half-portion!!! It was huge, very smooth, not too overpowering and accompanied by crunchy toasted baguette)

3. Cassoulet Maison (Saucisse, Confit de Canard, Poitrine de porc). Cassoulet came in a huge pot, simmered (for 1 day) with sausage, duck confit, pork belly and beans. This was the piece de resistance. A definite must-order at this restaurant. 

4. Foie de veau au vinaigre de framboise. Veal liver (not like we had enough already) with a reduction of raspberry vinegar. 

                              

The food was A+ on my list; the portions were huge and the price very reasonable, alas the service was a bit restrained. We saw the souffle that came out of the kitchen and it was of course ENORMOUS but just had no more room in our stomachs. I'll definitely come again and have drinks with Chef Dumonet!

Chez Dumonet

117 Rue du Cherche-Midi
75006 Paris, France
Tel: 01 45 48 52 40

Metro: Duroc