Noël in Hong Kong

Merry Christmas and Happy Boxing Day!
I hope everyone enjoyed their Christmas lunches and dinner, and were able to spend it with families and friends.


As for me; a very close family friend invited me to showcase culinary skills that I acquired during my time at Ferrandi. I know I'm fresh out of culinary school and am no superstar Chef but I thought 1. why not do something I love for Christmas and 2. take on the challenge?


I devised an 8-course tasting menu (including dessert) and decided to test my concept of east-meets-west food, a Fusion of Franco-Chinese ingredients. The number of people started out as 12 but last night I cooked for 16.


I was to prepare the meal in the hosts' home and was lucky enough to be assisted by a number of helpers, one of them my sous-chef and my right hand. I went to the local market (Bowrington) to buy all the produce for the next day and ordered the fish and seafood beforehand as during Christmas time it's hard to find a good amount of fresh produce (for such a large meal). I assisted in the location of the meal within the household, which ended up being outside, the place settings and the types of dishes and cutlery I wanted to use. 


It's funny...looking back, I really felt like a Chef in a kitchen, it was hectic at moments especially during the final dressage (plating), making sure the plates and most importantly the food was warm, plates were clean, making sure they were sent at the same time (or almost) so you can imagine the waves of waiters in and out of the kitchen and me trying to put the final pièce de resistance - e.g. dill leaf and the waiters just wanting to take the dish for the guests and me calling them back and telling them it wasn't finished...ahhhh i loved it all! I wanted to say Mais c'est pas possible! haha


The beautifully lit and set dinner party (for 16)

My kitchen for the night, all decked out with pots, pans, equipment even the oven we use at Ferrandi (the double dry and steam oven) and station for plate warmers

Before the guests had dinner, they sat down for hors d'oeuvres...

Now, the Menu and the pictures...

(Note: I was so busy plating at each course that I did not take the pictures, but someone was kind enough to do so but I realized they were also taken in such a rush so apologies for not showing the most accurate pictures of what I created)

Amuse Bouche: Emulsion d’Asperges Vertes, Poitrine de Porc Marinée    

(Emulsion of Green Asparagus, Marinated Pork belly)

Entrées:

Espuma d’ Homard, Crevettes et Tomates  

(Espuma of Lobster, Shrimp with Blanched Tomatoes)

Duo de Foie Gras, Salade Vinaigrette et Carpaccio d’Agrumes   

(Foie Gras Two-way, Vinaigrette Mesclun and Carpaccio of Citrus Fruit)

To Refresh the Palate

Sorbet au citron 

(Lemon sorbet with grated apple)

Poissons

Homard Poché, Sauce Bisque  

(Steamed Lobster, Shellfish Bisque)

1 comment about this photo: We had already sent 16 dishes of lobster (the much nicer lobes) and this was just for the picture, so the lobster bits are the tail ends. Apologies!

Filets de Bar, Purée de Vitelotte  

(Filets of Seabass, Sweet Potato Purée)

                                                                           

Viande

Magret de Canard, Tofu et Champignons Braisés 

(Duck Breast, Braised Bean curd and Chinese Mushrooms)

2 comments about this photo: 1. the braised mushrooms and tofu are not in the picture and 2. after putting the cucumber slices on the left, I decided to replace them with the absent mushrooms and tofu that I originally put below the duck breast. Apologies once more!

Desserts

Mille-feuille aux Fruits de Saison 

(Thousand layer cake with seasonal fruits)

Crème Brulée à la Vanille 

(Vanilla flavored Crème Brulée)

Lisa's famouse Crunch Cake (To die for!)

Don't forget the wine...oh the wine :)

2000 Cristal Champagne

1992 Puligny Montrachet, Bourgogne for Entrées and Poissons

1983 Chateau Cheval Blanc, St Emilion - Bordeaux for Viandes

1988 Chateau d'Yquem, Graves - Bordeaux for Dessert

I was surprisingly not nervous or anxious but felt excited to prepare a full dinner inspired by my culinary experiences at Ferrandi, Paris and abroad. For every course, I even went out to the guests and described the dish. It was my very first time and I enjoyed it all the way through. By the end, I felt a sense of satisfaction of having prepared the most 'gastronomic' meal I have ever prepared in my life. 


Obviously, there is a lot of room for improvement and some things I wasn't happy with but I am very proud of myself as a first-timer and want to relive these moments whether hectic or not again and again and again :)

Onto Seafood

Today we moved onto soups that were fish/seafood based and did a Crème Dieppoise (made from fish stock and roux and added with mussels) and a Bisque (from crab).
For the Bisque, we had to cut in quarters live crabs - some of them were still moving, one even pinched me before I decided to get back my revenge with a cleaver!

Crabs for our bisque

As an interesting side note, whenever you go to the market (in France) for seafood/fish, the best day is Tuesday because that's when they get fresh produce. 

The boys took charge of dividing the crabs...

For the bisque, we got to add in some cognac for a flambé (a glaze where alcohol is added to a hot pan to create flames)

Maniko pleased with her flames. Eyes closed just in case eyelashes get burnt off!

Mmmm...cooked crab!

After cooking the crabs until they are red, you smash it to little pieces, cook carrots, oignons, and shallots flambeed in cognac and then white wine which are then joined by the crab carcasses, fish stock and fresh tomatoes as well as tomato paste to get the red brick color. The bisque takes about 30 minutes to cook and should then be joined by rice (or some sort of starch).
In the end, the whole mixture is strained to just get the liquid which is finally added with liquid cream (Crème Fleurette). 

Bisque

For the Crème Dieppoise, we first have to make fish stock (made of fish carcasses) that is added to the sliced butter, white leeks, mushrooms and flour (roux blanc). By cooking for 30-35 minutes, the velouté thickens and we pass it through a strainer to make sure there are no leftover pieces. In a side sauteuse we saute mussels and baby shrimps with shallots and white wine and use some of the juice and lemon to the soup. 

End result is a white soup joined by mussels and shrimps, and of course cerfeuil!

Crème Dieppoise

A fishy day

So today we did a Fumet de poissons  (fish stock) and Soupe de poissons accompagnée d'une sauce rouille.

The fumet itself is pretty straight forward but it was dealing with the fish that made things messy...We had 4 differents types: congre (sea eel), rougets grondin (little red fish), merlan, and sole (i think) and we had to descale, empty the guts and clean them. Normally of course, the fishmonger will do this, but it was to get us in the experience...and it was messy. Already descaling the fish went all over the place in the garde-manger and the guts weren't so pretty as they were quite mushy. 

Chef Antoine showing us how to filet the fish

Afterwards, we sauteed them in butter, added the vegetables (shallots, onions, leeks, garlic), covered it with water and white wine and let it come to a boil then add the mushrooms and the bouquet garni (garnished bouquet: thyme, bay leaf, chervil tied together through a piece of leek). While this was cooking, we headed onto the Soup. 

For the soup, we sauteed in olive oil the remaining vegetables (onions, leeks, fennel, garlic), then the leftover fish. Eventually we added the fumet, the bouquet garni and let it all come to boil and added tomato paste and badiane (star anis). Chef Antoine also let us use some of his spices including Safran and piment d'espelette (a variety of chili pepper) among others. 

Boiling Soupe de poissons

When the soup is nice, red and boiling, we bring it to the mixer and then strain it through a chinois to have the end result: yummy red looking soup. 
Then we make the rouille made up of crushed garlic with salt, egg yolks, 1/2 lemon, 1-2 tablespoon of the soup that was reduced to a thicker sauce (also known as glace) and olive oil whisked altogether to get a mayonnaise-type thickness.
We fillet some of the fish (in advance) and sauteed them quickly in the soup (2-3 tablespoons) in a separate pan and below was the final presentation. Yum yum!

Soupe de poissons accompagnée d'une sauce rouille

Tomorrow, early rise for Le Menu Régional: Provence...But, can't wait!

A fine week of soups

As the 3rd week is coming to an end, we're getting closer to Friday and Le Menu Provençale. Every other friday, our group will be cooking a 6-course lunch (accompanied by wine) and we'll sit down altogether and eat after we cook and place all the dishes. I'll put up the menu and photos of it tomorrow but am excited to eat lots of fish, meat and desserts inspired by the Provence region!


In the meantime, we've made more complex soups this week; and I have loved all of them.


First, Crème Agnès Sorel (our Chef said that whenever Agnès Sorel's name comes along, it has to do something with mushrooms); so basically it's cream of mushroom soup - one of my top faves soups ever! To add a little twist, we rolled some chicken breast in clear film and steamed it, sliced it and presented it as the center-piece of the soup, along with some sauteed mushrooms. 

Creme Agnes Sorrel (with cracked pepper on the side)

Next, we did Consommé Brunoise. Now, it might not seem very complex, but I assure it, it takes many house, even an overnight process to get a very clear and transparent Consommé (a clear soup made from rich stock). First, you must immerse the veal bones (shanks, ox tail, rib) in water; then degrease and take out the fat that floats up top, cut and throw in carottes, roasted oignons, garlic, leek and let it simmer for 4-6 hours (at least!). This is a Marmite. Then take out all the liquid and preserve it in a fridge. The next day, we reheated it and had to do the clarification process (a fining process using protein) for it to become a Consommé. 

In a separate bowl, you must put in 1-2 egg whites, beat it for a couple of seconds, add in some raw vegetables and minced meat, mix it altogether and slowly add the brown liquid from the Marmite. The clarification process has to be exact, it cannot be too little or too much. Put it in a saucepan and what should happen is that the meat should be rising on top of the liquid. You have to let it sit for 30 minutes and what should happen is that it makes an opening within the liquid to a finer liquid (the Consommé), that is obviously strained beforehand. 

The vegetables need to be cut in brunoise style (so tiny dice of about 3-4 mm each, but they all have to be the same size!)

End process below, it really tasted great!

Consommé Brunoise

Finally, we did the famous Soupe à l'Oignon, a classic French soup; using oignons (of course), sweated in butter until golden brown, with which is added the Marmite liquid (from the latter dish). Some chefs put flour beforehand, but it's really a personal choice. 

Chef Antoine showing us how to place the sliced baguette and gruyère cheese before grilling

Then we pour it into a traditional oignon soup bowl, grill some baguette slices (2-3 is enough), place them on top unilaterally, add A LOT of gruyère cheese and pop it into the oven, then the salamander for a heating of the top. 

Before putting it in the grill!

Soupe à l'Oignon: 

Second week realization

Can't believe it's already been 2 weeks since I started this whole adventure. It's a bit surreal to be honest!
My thumb is slowly healing and the cut is closing itself little by little but every time I'm holding a pot, I can feel a strain making it difficult for it to heal. 
Luckily we have a long weekend this week so for the next couple of days, it won't be strained...well hopefully...


Ferrandi has been epic so far, a lot of stress and pressure in the kitchen to do well under Chef Stephane but the adrenaline rush makes it all worth while. We've done more potages this week, and I know more will come in the next week, but we need to get the basics done and I'm more than willing to learn EVERYTHING that comes my way!


Yesterday we did 2 potages at the same time: Velouté Dubarry (Cauliflower Velouté) and Crème de Cresson (Cream of Watercrest). 


For the Velouté Dubarry, first leeks (white part) are cooked in butter in a saute pan, then flour is added and so is the Cauliflower. Let it simmer then add stock (preferably veal, if not than chicken or vegetable will do), let them come to a boil and once it reduces a little bit, you have to mix it with a blender so that it thickens. 

Velouté Dubarry 

For a Velouté to be what it is, you have to add a liaison (a link) which in this case is Cream and egg yolks. Mix both ingredients together and slowly pour it in the pot (not on top of the fire or else the eggs curdle and you have scrambled eggs!).



For the Crème de Cresson, the green part of the leeks are cooked in butter and then joined by the watercrest and potatoes as well as stock until it comes to a boil. It is then passed through a mixer and strained. For a Crème to be what it is, it also needs a liaison and in this case, cream. 


Chef Stephane even let us plate our soup with an added bonus: espuma! Espuma is foam that comes out of a siphon (N2O canister) and is used a lot in molecular gastronomy as it incorporates a lighter texture of whatever ingredient you want to a dish. Ferran Adria (owner of El Bulli) is known to use Espuma in his dishes! On top of our Crème de Cresson, we put foamed salmon. It was awesome!

Crème de Cresson with Salmon Espuma (unfortunately the canister hasn't been used in ages so it wasn't foamy but still good looking!)

In the meantime, I'm trying to take advantage of the beautiful weather in Paris and went for a little promenade along the Seine. Love these little vintage book stores/stalls!

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   Crème

de Cresson, the green part of the leeks are also cooked through butter then is joined by the watercrest and potatoes. It is then covered with a stock, mixed through a blender and passed through a strainer. It too needs a liaison, in this case; only cream.